Whether you know it by the common name Fiddle Leaf Fig or botanical name Ficus lyrata, this is the cool kid of houseplants. It seems like the Fiddle Leaf Fig is always trending. If you're after a statement plant, you've found your perfect match with those huge, lush, glossy-green leathery leaves and ability to reach a good 3 metres or so when grown indoors, adding a foot or two of growth every year when happy and healthy.
And if you love their leaves but not their size, there's also the Ficus lyrata 'Bambino' or dwarf Fiddle Leaf Fig, which is more compact and more likely to branch, but can still eventually reach 1 to 2 metres.
Once you learn what they like (and don't like), they become much easier care. I'd still rate them more difficult than their Ficus cousins in the Elastica family, and they do share the same Ficus-family drama queen tendencies (especially when moved). However, once settled in, and you've learned their needs and how to read those gorgeous leaves, you'll be able to keep your Fiddle Leaf Fig happy and healthy with relatively minimal maintenance. Here's how...
PS: If your Fiddle Leaf Fig is a baldie with naked stems and no leaves, I've also shared a technique at the end that I've used to regrow new leaves on bare stems.
How much light do Fiddle Leaf Figs need?
Plenty of bright, indirect or filtered light is KEY to a happy Fiddle Leaf Fig. Common signs of not enough light include leggy growth where the stem length between leaves gets longer, stunted or slow growth, small new leaves, or drooping leaves that don't perk up when watered. Pale or yellowing leaves (when the cause isn't water or food), can also be a sign the light level's too low.
When those light levels are simply far too low, Fiddle Leaf Figs will sometimes droop or dramatically shed the unnecessary leaves that the light level is simply too low to support, and only hold on to the bare minimum, resulting in bare stems and only a handful of leaves (I have a fix for that at the end for you).
HOW MUCH LIGHT?
Aim to give your Fiddle Leaf Fig at least 6 to 8 'good light' hours a day. If you have a light meter, find a spot with at least 500 foot candles in a pinch (although at lower light levels a grow light is a good idea to boost light levels part of the day), but ideally aim for an average of 800 foot candles for a good 8+ hours a day for a happy Fiddle Leaf Fig. That's just the average though.
GROW LIGHTS ARE YOUR FRIEND
Low light? Or good light but not for enough hours? Two words: grow lights. Because of their notorious hatred of being moved, in winter, instead of shifting my FLF to a brighter spot, I leave it be and use a Sansi grow light for mine (that link is for those in NZ), to supplement low light levels. If you're overseas, this Sansi 24 watt from Amazon is the same one I use in a floor lamp.
SUN IS GOOD!
You'll often see the advice to avoid direct sunlight for Fiddle Leaf Figs, however I find it's the strength of the sun that matters and they handle direct sun fine if it's not too intense. Mine get a couple of hours direct sun daily, either early morning sun or late afternoon sun and are thriving. I just wouldn't go from low light to direct sun in a great rush though. Instead let the plant have time to adjust slowly to big light changes or their leaf-dropping drama-queen tendencies can kick in.
LEANING AND LIGHT
If your Fiddle Leaf Fig is getting a lean on, that's likely because it's leaning towards or away from the light. That can be a sign of too little or too much light, but to help avoid that happening, give your plant a quarter turn every fortnight or so to keep that growth even. In the wild, Ficus lyrata are actually climbers, using other trees to reach better light nearer the top of the rainforest canopy.
When should you repot a Fiddle Leaf Fig?
DON'T REPOT
I personally avoid repotting a Fiddle Leaf Fig unless it REALLY needs it as they can be a little dramatic during recovery. FLF's are more prone to transplant shock than most. One of the only signs I'll take as a message to repot is when I have to water far too often. Normally caused by the substrate no longer holding water for long enough, or there's no longer enough substrate left to hold water!
I don't have time for watering more than weekly, so if it's drying out faster than that, it's time to repot. Or if you've just got your Fiddle Leaf Fig and find it takes forever to dry out because the substrate's holding too much water, rather than risk root rot that's another time I'd repot, albeit still reluctantly.
LOW SOIL LEVEL
However, if you're thinking of repotting because the soil level has dropped over time, that's not normally a reason I'd repot. Unless the substrate's become hydrophobic and refusing to hold water, I just lift the plant out of the pot, add fresh substrate to the bottom, then simply put the plant back in on top to lift it up and give the roots new soil to expand into, causing minimal disruption to the roots.
IF YOU HAVE TO REPOT
Whatever the reason to repot, try to disturb the roots as little as possible. I've also found a seaweed or nutrient bath before you repot works wonders to help reduce transplant stress. There are lots more tips in this free repotting guide: Don't repot without doing this first >
What's the best substrate for a Fiddle Leaf Fig?
Getting the substrate right makes Fiddle Leaf Fig care a lot easier. Although your own conditions and plant parent style come into it of course, I like a half-and-half mix of a soil-based and soil-free substrates for mine. Soil-based or peat-based for the organic goodies and higher water retention, but mixed well with a chunkier, soil-free mix to bring up the free-draining, airy properties to the right balance.
Two combos I'm loving is a soil-based mix like Wildvine Houseplant Blend mixed with a soil-free aroid blend, such as either Bio Leaf Indoor Fine/Medium for smaller plants, or Bio Leaf Aroid Medium/Chunky for a bigger FLF both being great choices for the soil-free half of your mix.
Another combo mine like is Wildvine Houseplant Blend (soil-based), mixed with Wildvine Aroid Blend (soil-free). For a Fiddle Leaf Fig in really bright light which dries out quickly, you absolutely can use a soil-based mix by itself. If you're not in New Zealand, I've also heard fantastic reports about the custom Organic Fiddle Leaf Fig Potting Mix (available from Amazon).
What temperature range do Fiddle Leaf Figs prefer?
Coming from rainforests along the West African coast, Ficus Lyrata or Fiddle Leaf Figs prefer relatively warm conditions. One reason they do so well as indoor plants is they prefer the same temperature range we're comfortable in. Just watch those lows in winter. Aim for between 15 and 24 degrees Celsius (around 60 to 75 F). Lower than 12 degrees C (54 F), is best avoided.
When to water your Fiddle Leaf Fig
Lightly, evenly moist is the sweet spot you're aiming for. Over-watering is much worse than under-watering, so if in doubt, don't water. I wait until my Fiddle Leaf Fig is just over 50% dry before watering again, a little more in winter, but I find they don't like going fully dry, at least not for long.
The right substrate makes getting watering right much easier, as do clear pots which mean you can keep an eye on moisture levels through the side of the pot. Otherwise a water meter helps take the guesswork out by telling you the moisture level down at the roots where you can't check with your finger. Just keep in mind water meters can't be 100% relied on. You still have to make the final decision on whether it's time to water based on the needs of the plant.
Why do the new leaves on my Fiddle Leaf Fig have small brown spots on them?
Something unique to Fiddle Leaf Figs (although I have seen it in hoyas also), is small, rust-coloured brown spots on new leaves that appear after you water, like the photo above. Often mistaken for pests or rot.
Called edema, it's normally harmless, and caused by cells bursting from more water being sent from the roots to the leaves, than the leaves can 'breathe out'. Not necessarily a sign of over-watering, more a sign that light, temperature or airflow might be too low for the plant and something needs to change. Learn more about edema and how to fix it here >
Why are my Fiddle Leaf Fig leaves puckering?
If you've got something like the photo above going on where some leaves are puckering, that's typically caused by the air being too dry. Fiddle Leaf Figs prefer medium to high humidity. Get yourself a hygrometer to keep an eye on humidity levels. Aim to keep humidity at least above 30%. If you need to, you can then get your plants a small area humidifier. I like the H2O cordless humidifiers.
How to avoid and treat root rot in Fiddle Leaf Figs
The most common water-related problem with Fiddle Leaf Figs is root rot. When you do water, water heavily enough so the entire substrate is saturated top to bottom. Over-watering is when you water again too soon (it's about the frequency of watering, so how often you water, NOT how much you give when you do water). In typical household conditions, you want to let your Fiddle Leaf Fig dry to at least half way before watering again.
Watering too lightly, or not often enough, can also cause root rot, also called dry root rot. That happens when the root hairs die due to being too dry too long. Then the next time you water, hello root rot, because the roots can no longer absorb the water.
No matter the cause, the fungus and bacteria that cause root rot to flourish prefer low-oxygen, moist conditions. Because it spreads fast, you need to get those dead, rotting rots out of the pot asap.
Symptoms of root rot in a Fiddle Leaf Fig include yellowing, droopy leaves (often the lower leaves first), brown spots and leaf drop. If you suspect root rot, get your plant out of the pot right away and look for wet, mushy, soft, dark roots. Trim off all the rotting roots. Then repot into fresh substrate.
What's the best fertiliser for a Fiddle Leaf Fig?
Although slow'ish growers, those glorious leaves definitely need fertiliser to stay in good health and avoid common nutrient deficiencies. Feeding little and often has worked great for mine, called the weekly weakly method >
Keep in mind a plant's growth is limited by the nutrient they need the LEAST of (yes, the least, not the most), so not feeding at all can inhibit growth and health. Go for a complete fertiliser, ideally one higher in nitrogen (also called a foliage fertiliser), in order to keep up with the needs of those huge leaves.
This isn't officially 'a thing' but some fertilisers get known for working wonders on certain plants. And when it comes to Fiddle Leaf Figs, it's Plant Runner Indoor Plant Food. Here's Dom's epic Fiddle Leaf Fig (Dom is a horticulturalist and the co-founder of Plant Runner).
Another popular choice for Fiddle Leaf Fig fertiliser is GT Foliage Focus. Here's a before and after before, where the only change made was to use GT Foliage Focus:
Why are my Fiddle Leaf Fig's leaves drooping?
With their drama queen tendencies when something isn't to their liking, drooping leaves is a common concern with Fiddle Leaf Figs. There are a few common causes, so it's a matter of ruling out each one-by-one, but typically nothing to worry too much about if leaves are only drooping but not dropping off altogether!
WHEN DROOPING LEAVES IS NORMAL
It's normal for the lower leaves of a Fiddle Leaf Fig to droop near the bottom, so if the majority are happy and perky all is probably well. Another common time they naturally droop is when they're new leaves. It takes a little while for new leaves to harden, especially when the new leaf is a big one. If it's a new leaf, hold off on worrying for a couple of days and it should firm up by itself.
IS IT THIRSTY?
I find inconsistent or under-watering is the #1 cause of drooping leaves. So the first thing to check is the substrate. Does it need a drink?
CHANGE IS NOT GOOD
Next I'd consider recent changes such as repotting or moving your plant. If it's either of those I'd wait a week or two and it should settle in and the leaves should perk back up soon by themselves (it can take longer after repotting, shorter after moving).
SENSITIVE TO SPRAYS
Another common cause is drooping after treatment. If you've applied anything such as pesticides or other spray-on or wipe-on treatments, give the leaves a good clean with plain water. Be extra careful after applying anything to keep leaves out of direct sun usually just for the same day of application. Sometimes the combo of certain treatments and sun can cause a chemical burn which causes leaves to droop.
A warning: Be careful what you use to clean your Fiddle Leaf Fig
A quick warning on keeping those beautiful leaves dust-free. A downside of their big, leathery leaves is dust, and lots of it. They are dust magnets! A little dust isn't a biggie, but it can build up and end up blocking leaves both from getting all the light they love, as well as blocking stomata, the pores on the surface of leaves that our plants use to 'breathe' in and out or transpire. Dusty leaves can also attract pests like spider mites.
So when you're faced with a dusty Fiddle Leaf Fig, what you use to clean them matters. The last thing you want is replace being blocked with dust, with being blocked with leaf shine. Most leaf shine products are silicon-based and tend to leave behind a layer that can block stomata, not to mention a gloss so shiny it looks fake. The reason a lot of planty experts will tell you to stay away from leaf shine.
Plant Runner to the rescue again. The Plant Runner Neem Oil Leaf Shine is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't block your plant's pores, and restores the plants natural shine. Neem Oil is also thought to act as a mild pest repellent (only in much higher concentrations is Neem Oil a pesticide though). I like putting on my muppet hands (otherwise known as microfibre dusting gloves), spritz on a little Neem Oil Leaf Shine, and together it makes quick work of dusting those big leaves.
How to fix bare Fiddle Leaf Fig stems after leaf loss
Given those drama queen tendencies, it's no surprise to hear how many Fiddle Leaf Figs are baldies down below, with bare stems left behind after leaf loss. Although their woody stems means it's not as easy to re-activate those nodes to get new leaf growth, it is possible. Here's how I do it...
ACTIVATE TWO NODES AT A TIME
Being woodier, you'll first need to score or notch above one or two nodes. I only use this technique on a couple of nodes at a time because plants typically produce one leaf at a time, so producing two or more at once is a big ask. Plus the more you activate at once I find risks the resulting leaves being smaller.
HOW TO SCORE OR NOTCH A FIDDLE LEAF FIG
You can either cut a slot into the stem, about 1/4 to 1/3rd of the way in, using a knife or similar. Or you can cut a small, shallow triangle wedge out of the stem. Either way, score or notch above the node/s you want to activate. And watch out for their white, sticky sap! It will drip sap for a while so put something protective down on the floor. Wash tools quickly before the sap gets sticky. And avoid getting it on your skin (wear gloves or wash hands immediately), as it can cause skin irritation.
APPLY CLONING PASTE
Once the sap has stopped and a callus has formed on the surface, apply a dab of Crazy Keiki Cloning Paste. The plant growth hormones in Crazy Keiki encourages the cells on the callus to form into new leaves. It'll take a while (about 4 to 8 weeks), but this is the method I've had the most success with.
FEED!
If you weren't already feeding your Fiddle Leaf Fig, now's the time to start. Growing two or more leaves at the same time needs fuel. Pick a higher-nitrogen foliage fertiliser. There are a couple of popular Fiddle Leaf Fig fertilisers linked above.
Fiddle Leaf Fig question not answered here?
Please do get in touch. I'll give you one-on-one help but also add to this guide to help even more plant parents.
Happy growing,
Anna